Sewing, embroidery and accessories

Pattern cutting and sewing a softly tailored coat with Allison Rodger

Ref: S5D09912


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About this course

Learn how to construct your own softly tailored coat, based on your measurements and proportions. Achieve a professional finish as you enhance your tailoring skills while sewing your coat.

Course Description

On this course you will learn how to construct your own softly tailored coat, based on your measurements and proportions.

Choose one of two different simple coat shapes, variations of the classic Max Mara style, which you can individualise with sleeve and hem length. You can choose textured wool, alpaca, cashmere or tweed, for any season or occasion. Personalise your coat with simple pockets or the trim of your choice, and capture the essence of understated style.

The course involves creating a made-to-measure pattern, making and fitting your toile, and constructing the coat, under expert guidance to achieve a professional finish.

At the end of this course not only will you come away with a coat that is beautifully made and a perfect fit, but also with skills and confidence to independently embark on other tailoring projects.


Arrival Day - this is the first date listed above

Courses start early evening. Residential students to arrive from 4pm, non-residential students to arrive by 6.45pm.

6.45pm: Welcome, followed by dinner (included).

8 - 9pm: First teaching session, attendance is essential.

Daily timetable

Classes 9.15 - 5pm, lunch is included.

From 6.30pm: Dinner (included for residential students).

Evening working - students may have access to workshops, but only with their tutor's permission and provided any health and safety guidelines are observed.

Last day

Classes 9.15am - 3pm, lunch is included.

Residential students are to vacate their rooms by 10am please.

(This timetable is for courses of more than one day in length. The tutor may make slight variations)

Course Materials


  • Spot and cross drafting paper.

What students need to bring

  • Consider the style you would like to make from the two variations provided by the tutor once you have booked the course. Also consider design elements, such as pockets, trims, and fastenings such as poppers buttons, hooks etc. Make your own research, or visual mood board.
  • Please bring: Mannequin – please bring if you happen to have one
  • Sewing machine – preferably please bring your own to use. (College machines may be used if you reserve one in advance by emailing
  • Sharp, fabric cutting shears, embroidery/sewing scissors*, metre rule Grading square- metric/imperial as preferred*, notchers (if you have them – not vital)*, Scotch Tape Tracing wheel*, machine thread to match your fabric- recommended thread type Coats Epic or Gutermann Mara, fastenings for your jacket eg. poppers, hooks, buttons

Available to buy

  • Available from shop:
  • Tape measure
  • Paper cutting scissors
  • H pencil/propelling pencil
  • Eraser
  • Red pen and Black pen
  • Bradawl
  • Pins
  • Hand sewing needles
  • Machine needles sizes 10 12 & 14
  • Thimble
  • Chalk
  • Pritt stick
  • Un-picker
  • Cheap thread for stitching toiles*
  • Available from tutor:
  • Fuse: Light weight – black and off white, £7 per metre
  • Fuse: Medium weight – black and off white, £7 per metre
  • Calico – 3m medium weight 150cm wide
  • Shoulder Pads – black and white, £5 a pair
  • Selection of trims, braids, buttons, lace, beads etc.
  • Toiling thread, £1 per 1000m reel
The tutor can order fabric from Linton Tweed, if requried, please email your preferred choice to Allison via the if you wish to take up this offer in good time to place the order. The tutor will contact you prior to the course with the two pattern designs you may choose from.


Allison Rodger

Allison Rodger trained in Fashion Design at Harrow School of Art, and gained experience in couture clothing working for London's top designers. From 1987, she became renowned for her bridal designs, but her love of British wools, tweeds and colour inspired Allison to learn tailoring techniques and skills, for which she is now highly regarded. Allison teaches fashion design students pattern making and clothing production, and is very impressed with the tailored garments produced by her short course students at West Dean College.


Residential option available. Find out accommodation costs and how to book here.

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